Abercastle is a sleepy village, with houses creeping up to the water’s edge and I couldn’t resist a stroll down to the shore in the dark on our first night to swallow the invigorating sea air.
The next day, loaded with packed lunches, we walked to our small beach, a mix of sand and pebbles, where Alfred Johnson landed in 1876, having become the first to cross the Atlantic alone.
Of course, my two children weren’t interested in this nugget of anecdotes, but they were interested in skimming the pebbles and chasing the waves as far as they dared before running away at the right time a little too much. late).
We walked south on the coastal path, following a small track across the beach. With two young children we hadn’t planned on walking far but just being outside and feeling the crisp wind on our faces a short walk from our house was fine.
The reason for the excursion was to visit Carreg Samson – a 5,000 year old Neolithic cromlech made up of several standing stones topped with what looks like a dangerously placed capstone – which my husband had spotted on a map.
Pembrokeshire has more scheduled monuments than any other Welsh county except Powys, but they are very rarely reported. In true folk tradition, this on display burial chamber is said to have been built by St Samson, who, according to legend, placed the capstone on top using his pinky finger. The children, as expected, were puzzled.
We had more fun getting their attention before a walk to the point of St Davids Head to see another burial chamber, Coetan Arthur. Purely, I think, because he shared a name with my oldest. And so, it became an adventure.
We parked at Whitesands Bay, a beautiful, wide beach, and walked north, along the coastal path, with my husband happily flying away while I spent my time trying to make sure the kids weren’t there. weren’t too enthusiastic in their efforts as the path climbed high along the edge of the cliff.
They amazed us, completing the five mile round trip walk with minimal whining. The views along this rugged stretch of coast are breathtaking, with vivid blue seas and secret bays carved into the coast. I’m told that in the summer the cliffs are ablaze with wildflowers, with sightings of peregrine falcons, northern gannets, dolphins and porpoises possible.
Seals also frequent these shores and we had two sightings: a couple at the Blue Lagoon in Abereiddy (a former slate quarry which is now a popular water sports base) and swimming in the sea near a rocky beach. after a visit to Melin Moulin de Tregwynt.